Wood Burning Hot Tubs FAQ

Plinth primer is a common alternative for home construction. For most of our houses, we have terminal plans that you can follow. You will find the terminal board in the manual, usually at the back. 

A more ambitious variant that is commonly used in larger constructions is to cast a concrete slab.

If you want help with the foundation, you can also choose to order the foundation with a ground screw through us. Then our partner Sluta Gräv comes out and puts the ground screw. Ground screw is a flexible alternative to terminals.

You can read more about foundation here .

Our houses are sold as finished kits and major changes, such as changing the exterior dimensions of the house, are not possible. The changes you can make differ a little depending on which model you choose and whether it is a knot-timbered house or an element house. Adding windows and doors is almost always possible.

Knotted timbered houses

Våra knuttimrade hus kan man vanligen spegelvända, då stockarna är likadana på in- och utsida. Man vänder då helt enkelt stockarna vid montering. Om ni spegelvänder hela huset blir planlösningen spegelvänd även invändigt. För att det ska fungera att spegelvända huset krävs dock att huset är symmetriskt uppbyggt. Att flytta invändiga väggar utan att spegelvända huset är vanligen inte möjligt, då även innerväggarna har knutar på utsidan. Vill ni flytta fönster eller dörrar går det ofta att lösa genom att flytta timmerstockar från en sida huset till en annan.

Elementhus

I våra elementhus ser tillvägagångssättet lite annorlunda ut, då de är uppbyggda av färdiga byggelement. Om storleken på elementen är densamma är det möjligt att byta plats på dem. Man kan därför många gånger flytta fönster och dörrar även i elementhusen.

Remove windows or doors

If you want to remove windows or doors in the houses, it will be a little trickier. Then you need to either buy extra timber (knotted timber houses) or an extra element (element house).

We also have a timbered house completely without windows and doors, which we call Attefallshus Blind - where you have greater flexibility to choose which windows and doors you want. 

If you are unsure of what is possible to change, we recommend that you contact our customer service.

Good ventilation removes odors and food and prevents moisture-related mold. In insulated houses, you need both exhaust and supply air valve to get a good ventilation flow. We recommend that you put a supply air valve in each room in the house and a mechanical electric exhaust air valve in the bathroom. Then you create a negative pressure when you turn on the valve in the bathroom, it forces air to be sucked in through the supply air valves placed in the other rooms and creates a good air circulation in the house. If you use a moisture-controlled exhaust air valve that can be running even when you are not in place, you ensure that moisture does not remain in the house during periods when the house is not in use. We also have a solar-powered valve that is activated automatically when the sun is up, which can be an alternative to a mechanical fan solution.

In uninsulated houses such as storage, an exhaust air valve is sufficient as the house itself is not close to windows and doors. Here, too, we recommend the solar-powered valve solution. 

The houses are delivered on plastic pallets. Dimensions and weight for the packages can be found under the heading Specifications a bit down on the product page for each house. Should the information be missing for the particular house you are looking at, you are welcome to contact us, and we will check it out.

Which wood thickness and insulation we recommend depends on how you intend to use the house. The thickness of the wood is primarily an aesthetic issue, but also affects the surface internally. If you choose a coarser timber thickness, you will lose a little more floor space inside. On the other hand, it looks more solid with coarser wood.

The insulation effect comes from the insulation and not the thickness of the wood. If you intend to use the house all year round, we recommend that you insulate both floors, walls and ceilings.

If you are unsure of which insulation package to choose, you are welcome to contact our customer service and choose to talk to one of our house experts in the exchange.

For a good foundation of open constructions such as ground screw, plinths, leca blocks or croft foundation, it is always good to first dig out topsoil, lay a ground cloth and then macadam. This prevents water from penetrating into the structure.

We have assembly packages for our larger houses. If you order assembly, our experienced craftsmen will come out and assemble the house for you. You will find the price for installation under the accessories in the right-hand column on each product page. Click on "Show all accessories" and you will see the accessories. If you click on the little i, you will get more information about what is included in the package. We recommend that you talk to one of our house experts to get more information about the packages and what is possible to order or remove for the particular house you are looking at.

You might think that it is best to choose a thicker wood thickness if you want to insulate the house for year-round living, but the insulation effect comes mainly from insulation and not from the thickness of the wood. Therefore, on the contrary, we recommend that you choose a thinner wood thickness if you intend to insulate the cottage. You then get space with more insulation without it taking up too much floor space inside. 

No, you can plan and arrange electricity and plumbing according to your own needs. If, for example, you want a kitchen, bathroom, shower or something else related to plumbing in your cottage, it is a good idea to contact a plumbing company where you live before delivery of the cottage and show the drawings of the house and tell where you want water / drain etc withdrawn. Then the plumbing company can help with planning and execution of this.

The same thing applies with electricity. Carefully plan where you want outlets, lights, switches, etc. and then talk to a local electrician. Show your drawings and where you want electrical installations and the electrician can help with that.

If you are going to use the house as an ancillary residential building, you must always choose 3-glazed windows to be able to meet the energy requirements that the National Board of Housing, Building and Planning sets for housing.

Even if you do not intend to use the house as a permanent home, 3-glazed windows have a significantly better so-called. U-value than 2-glazed windows, which means that in the long run you always reduce the energy requirement and thus also the heating costs. Our 3-glazed windows are always pre-painted, which can also be an argument for choosing these.

If you are only going to use your house as an ancillary building for temporary living, then you do not need 3-glazed windows but can choose 2-glazed windows instead.

How long it takes to assemble an attefall house obviously depends on several factors. What house it is, how used to building, how many people are building and how long days you work, etc.

But to give a clue, we usually say that it takes about a week to assemble the kit itself if you are two normal-handed people who have not built a similar house before. If you are going to insulate the house, you can count on about a week more work for this.

The most common foundation is plinth foundation. To make it easy for you, we have developed a terminal plan for almost all our houses. It is a drawing that shows how you can set the terminals. You will find the terminal plan for each house in the manual. The terminal board is usually located at the back of the manual.

Of course, you can also choose another type of foundation, such as casting a concrete slab.

We never insulate between a window frame and a log due to the risk that both moisture from inside and outside can be bound in the insulation. It is also especially important to leave a gap over windows and doors of approx. 40 mm during installation so that the house can shrink. The gap decreases during the first years, after which the house is dry and has found its final shape and there are very small movements thereafter.

In addition, good air flow is needed in a sauna and the gaps between between both the window frame / wall log and between the floorboards contribute to the supply air flow into the sauna.

How long it takes to heat the sauna depends on several factors - how cold it is outside, which unit you use and the size of the cottage. Which wood thickness you choose also has a certain effect on the heating time. The basic principle is that cottages with coarser timber thickness take a little longer to heat up, as the timber absorbs more heat. On the other hand, it also keeps the heat a little longer.

Ex. heating time 4 sqm sauna Wood / Electricity:

4 sqm EL unit takes about 0.5 - 1 h

4 sqm VED unit takes about 0.5 - 1 h

The thickness of the wood makes a marginal difference to how the sauna retains heat and how quickly it heats up. The most common reason why customers choose a coarser wood thickness is for aesthetic reasons, as many people think that it looks more solid with coarser wood.

Our knot-timbered sauna cabins do not need to be treated internally. They are in solid spruce and last well despite temperature changes. If you want a different look, you can of course treat the timber boards inside anyway. Contact a paint store for more information on products that are suitable for use in a sauna.

Our element cabins, on the other hand, need to be insulated in both walls and ceilings and supplemented with interior panels. We sell packages with panels and insulation for these cottages. The panel does not need to be treated, but of course you can treat it if you want.

Condensation can definitely form on the inside of the windows, especially after using the sauna and the air in the sauna cools down, then there is a high moisture content in the indoor air and a low temperature on the inside of the glass pane. How much condensation is formed depends on the air temperature outside and how good / poor ventilation you have in the sauna.

When you heat the sauna, before the sauna bath, there is no condensation on the inside of the windows. During heating of the sauna, the temperature of the glass pane gradually rises and any condensation disappears. It is in the stage when the sauna cools down after the sauna bath that the risk of condensation is greatest.

Yes, since the stove has a closed door, it is possible to light it even if there is a fire ban. But remember to be extra careful when you light the hot tub.

The weight of the house should prevent the house from moving. If you feel unsure, it is best to contact a designer who can make a calculation for your specific conditions. You can also protect yourself by attaching